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Thursday 8 May 2014 Location: Madrid, Spain

M GOES TO ... M

Madrid.
Proti pričakovanjem.


Proti pričakovanjem precej hribčkast. Ne morem se odločit, če mi je to všeč ali ne. Vsekakor ni ugodno za mestno kolesarjenje. Ima pa fenomenalne vištice na samega sebe in okolico.

Proti pričakovanjem prijeten. Kljub temu, da je velik in prometen, ima svoje presenetljivo mirne točke. Parki in parkci in trgi in kavarnice in knjigarne in drevesa. (Dejstvo, ki je poželo del mojega navdušenja, je bilo med drugim tudi to, da imajo v grbu poleg medveda eno izmed mojih najljubših dreves - madroño/Arbutus unedo. Yay!) Izjemno turistični punkti so me kar malo zmrazili in sem šla mimo samo zato, da lahko rečem "ja, sem bla tudi tam". Eno popoldne sem sicer kot pravi turist posvetila muzejem. El Prado se je splačalo obiskati skoraj izključno zaradi Goye in njegovih Pinturas negras oziroma zaradi čisto specifične slike... ki niti pretirano impozantna po svoji velikosti ali brutalnem motivu. Ampak takoj, ko jo vidiš na koncu dolge dvorane, veš, da je to to. In pozabiš, da ti okoli tekajo zdolgočaseni otroci in da je v prostoru nasploh čisto preveč ljudi in da so dejansko precej moteči. Reina Sofia je čisto druga zgodba. Obdobja, ki so mi bliže, in avtorji, ki so mi načeloma bolj všeč. Turisti se pa pač vedno isto obnašajo. Stojijo 3 metre stran od Guernice in - klepetajo. NE.

Proti pričakovanjem navdušujoč. Zanimiv in pisan. In na nek svoj poseben način ustvarjalen. Po pravici povedano sem do španjolske prestolnice gojila male neutemeljene predsodke - v smislu "itak mi ne bo tako všeč kot Barcelona". Definitivno je k spremembi mojega mnenja dosti pripomoglo to, na kakšen način mi je bil Madrid predstavljen. Gracias, Luis. :) Na najbolj ne-turističen možen način. In z res kul stvarmi. In malček z arhitekturnega vidika - obnove in oživljanja starih objektov v mestu in umeščanja novih dejavnosti. Bivša mestna klavnica, Matadero, ki je zdaj namenjena gledališču, koncertom, razstavam, restavraciji, kavarni... in je minuli vikend gostila "tržnico" španskih oblikovalcev (in itak sem si morala omislit novo skicirko). Nekoč tobačna tovarna, La Tabacalera, kjer zdaj mirno funkcionira samoorganiziran socialni center in so doma glasba, vizualne umetnosti, prireditve in druge aktivnosti. Podobno alter sceno ima tudi El Campo de Cebada, kjer se je na mestu porušenega športnega objekta razvil družabni prostor - iz preprostega razloga, da ne bi bila točka sredi mesta prazna, medtem ko se (za nedoločen čas) čaka na izgradnjo novega objekta. In potem te od tam med nedeljskim dopoldanskim sprehodom preseneti a capella koncertič.

Proti pričakovanjem ima perfektno spomladansko podnebje - sicer si ga v poletni varianti brez morja ful težko predstavljam, ampak zdaj je bilo ravno prav. Na soncu toplo, sredi dneva vroče, v senci prijetno. Zvečer rabiš pulover. In šal za se peljat z motorjem domov. In zjutraj, ko sediš na stopnicah za na vrt in zajtrkuješ, te malo zebe v podplate.




 







       

P.S. Naučila sem se, da imajo Španci mnogo izrazov za počivanje, siesto in podobna lagodna početja. Trenutno je moj najljubši tisti, ki bi v prevodu prosto po L. pomenil, da si nekje komot in čiliraš, in bi se potencialno moral premaknit, ampak si tako skuliran in ti je všeč, kjer si, da se najraje ne bi premaknil (in ponavadi tega tudi ne narediš). Estoy apalancado. :)

P.P.S. Več slik tukaj. :)

~

Madrid.
Against all expectations.

Surprisingly full of altitude differences. I cannot decide if I like that or not. Surely, it's not comfortable for a bike ride, but has gorgeous views to itself and the surroundinds.

Surprisingly pleasant. Even if it’s big and crowded, it has lots of quiet places. Parks and plazas and cafes and bookstores and trees. (The fact that I was quite fascinated by – among other things – was that the city’s coat of arms represents a bear and one of my favourite trees - madroño/Arbutus unedo. Yay!) The extremely touristic spots made me somehow a little nervous and I just passed through them so I can say “yeah, I was there too”. Nevertheless, I dedicated an afternoon doing a quite touristic thing – visiting museums. It was worth visiting El Prado almost entirely for Goya and his Pinturas negras or even one specific painting… which is neither overly impressive for its size nor for a brutal motive. But as soon as you see it in the end of a long hall, you know this is it. And for a moment you forget that there are bored kids running around and that in the room there are obviously too many people and they are actually quite disturbing. Reina Sofia is a completely different story. Periods that I feel closer and authors that generally I tend to like better. Tourists still behave the same as before. Standing 3 meters away from Guernica and – chatting. NO.

Surprisingly impressive and inspiring. Interesting and colorful. And creative in its own special way. Honestly, before arriving here I had some small prejudices towards the Spanish capital – something like “anyway, I will not like it as much as I like Barcelona”. The thing that definitely helped to change my mind was the way Madrid was presented to me. Gracias, Luis. :) In the most non-tourist way with all the cool features. And a little from the architectural point of view – renovation and revitalisation of old buildings in the city with the placement of new activities. Former city slaughterhouse, Matadero, is now occupied by theatre, concerts, exhibitions, restaurant, café… and last weekend hosted a “market” of Spanish designers (and I obviously had to buy me a new sketchbook). Once a tobacco factory, La Tabacalera, that now functions as a self-organized social center and is home to music, visual arts, events and other activities. El Campo de Cebada has a similar “alternative” feeling – a social area spontaneously developed in the site of a demolished sports facility. For the simple reason that this place would not be empty while waiting (for an indefinite period of time) for the construction of a new building. And then from this same place you hear an a capella concert that interrupts your relaxed Sunday morning stroll.

Surprisingly, Madrid has a perfect spring climate – I can’t imagine it in the summer version without the sea, but now it was just right. Warm in the sun, sometimes hot in mid-day, pleasant in the shade. In the evening you need a sweater. And a scarf for the ride home with the motorbike. And in the morning, when you sit on the garden stairs eating breakfast, your feet get a little cold.

P.S. I’ve learned that Spanish people have various expressions for resting, siesta or other leisurely “activities”. Currently my favourite one could be translated/explained (according to L.) somehow like: you are somewhere chillin’ and you should move somewhere else, but you feel so relaxed and like where you are, that you’d rather not move (and usually you don’t). Estoy apalancado. :)

P.P.S. More pictures here. :)

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